Lisa Morrison

Beer School: It’s the Water

You’ve no doubt seen those old beer ads with quotes such as “From the Land of Sky Blue Waters” “Water Best for Brewing” and “It’s the Water.”

Truth or marketing hype? Well, it turns out those old-school advertising agents were right: It is the water. With beer being comprised of more than 90 percent water, and water being one of four main ingredients in beer (along with grains, hops and yeast), water is pretty important stuff, playing a large role in the final product.

While some folks might think that water is water, nothing could be farther from the truth. In fact, different water sources play a key role in certain beer styles. In Burton-on-Trent, England, for instance, the local water is extremely “hard” — it contains a high proportion of dissolved salts that come from the gypsum from the surrounding hills. The region’s iconic pale ales benefit from the extra minerals and create a flavor profile that accentuates hops and has come to be recognized as a classic style. Burton-on-Trent dominated the pale ale style brewing until a chemist, C. W. Vincent, discovered “Burtonization,” a process in which gypsum is added to water to mimic the chemical composition of Burton’s. Because of that process, any brewery can brew pale ale in the Burton style.

In Plzen, Czech Republic, the opposite is the case. The local water is very soft, thanks to natural aquifers, and the water’s lack of minerals and low alkalinity help create the softness and roundness that is the trademark of the classic Bohemian pilsner lager.

Recently, in my hometown of Portland, Ore., another great beer city in its own right, brewers have been grappling with a mandate from the Environmental Protection Agency that Portland, and all U.S. cities, filter its water to remove an intestinal parasite that the city’s water source doesn’t have – and hasn’t had for more than a century. A number of the city’s brewers, led by Widmer Brothers Brewing, say the process would strip the city’s water of important minerals that would alter the flavor of the water, and the beer. It’s an ongoing battle that promises to continue for some time, but certainly demonstrates the importance of water quality and composition in beer.

So what are some of the chemicals, elements and components that can influence beer flavors? Here are a few:

Calcium — Produces an acid that balances acidity and alkalinity, also known as pH. The balance is necessary for certain enzymes to do their role in the beer brewing process.
Magnesium — Used by yeast in the production of enzymes required for fermentation. Magnesium can diminish calcium’s effectiveness, so it has to be carefully monitored. At higher levels, it also can make the beer sour or bitter.
Chlorine – Often added by municipal water systems to prevent bacteria in water supplies. It adds a bitter taste and can be death on yeast. Fortunately, it can be easily removed by boiling or carbon filtration.
Sodium – High concentrations can kill yeast. Most natural sources contain negligible amounts, but some breweries with water sources near oceans might need to control of salinity.
Sulphates — Provide a dry, sharp flavor and can compliment hops, but in too high a concentration it can make the ale excessively bitter.
Trace elements — Zinc and copper are two trace elements that contribute to yeast metabolism. High levels can create a cloudy beer.
Carbonates – Promote the extraction of tannins from hops and grains.

So, the next time you enjoy that beer in your glass, think a bit about the water that went into the beer – there’s a lot more going on in there than you probably would imagine.

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